Zouking in Rio

My premise for going to Rio was to study Brazilian Zouk – a sensual partnered dance done to Zouk music.  I was introduced to Zouk in 2014 and fell in love with it instantly.  I didn’t pursue it at the time for various reasons, but studying Zouk in Rio was top on my list when I decided to embark on this project.  During my time in Rio, I attended twice-weekly group dance lessons, as well as a few private lessons, with Renata Peçanha, one of the premier dance instructors in the world of Brazilian Zouk.  I was also fortunate to be here during Renata’s “Zouk in Rio” Zouk congress and to attend quite a few Zouk dance parties.

Brazilian Zouk got its start in the 90’s.  When Lambada died around this time, Zouk grew out of its ashes to better reflect the evolution in contemporary dance music.  According to this Wikipedia article, Renata and her partner at the time are credited with originating the Brazilian Zouk style of dance, growing it out of Lambada, borrowing from Salsa and Bolero, and creating new movements.  Here’s an interview she gave earlier this year about the origins of Zouk and how she developed it, along with some video clips of her dancing with one of her partners, Jorge Peres (it starts in Portugeuse for the first minute, but then it switches to English; great video of them dancing begins at 6:41).

You may not have heard of Zouk, but I assure you it is huge the world over.  Zouk congresses – usually 3 days of dance instruction and social dance parties from Friday-Sunday – are held in Brazil, the U.S., Canada, Russia, the Netherlands, Israel, Malaysia, the Emirates, Lebanon, Germany, Australia, Slovenia, Poland, Czech Republic…all over the world!  And it all started with Renata Peçanha.  And I got to spend three weeks with her studying this dance she created.

Zouk is a sexy dance.  It can be danced chest to chest, and dancers often press their faces or heads to one another.  It involves body rolls and body waves on the part of both partners, and lots of slinky body movements and head rolls on the part of the follows.  It is danced to Zouk music and to pop music that has usually been remixed.  In classes and at dance parties, we danced to Colbie Callait, Sara Bareilles, John Legend, Justin Timberlake, Maroon 5, Sia, and Ed Shirin, among others.  I will never be able to hear Sia’s “Chandelier” again without feeling Zouk inside me, without seeing the dark rooms and undulating bodies of the Zouk parties in Rio.

I really enjoy Zouk, but I struggle with it, as well.  I come from the school of Lindy Hop, where social dancing means the lead leads the follow by moving his own body and the follow responds accordingly.  This is true of Zouk, as well, but the line becomes blurry when it comes to the body movements and head rolls the lead leads the follow to do.  There’s a lot of direct manipulation by the lead of the follow’s body movements – it’s not the lead dancing and the follow following, it’s the lead moving the follow.  Granted, I only danced Zouk for about 3 weeks, but I never did get used to, or comfortable with, that aspect of the dance.  In addition, the lead to move the follow into – or out of – a head roll is sometimes very subtle, and I often found myself frustrated, not sure which direction to move or when to straighten up.  These are complex movements, though, and more time and practice would yield greater comfort and success with the dance.  The body movements and head rolls put a lot of strain on the body, though – it’s important, but not necessarily easy, to protect your back and neck when you’re bending forward, backward, or to the side while simultaneously rotating or turning.  A night of Zouk dancing was always followed by a day of rest and relaxation for my neck and back.  Fortunately, Copacabana and Ipanema were both just a few blocks away from my studio :).

P.S.  I wrote this post while sitting in the lobby of of my jumbo jet-cum-hostel in Stockholm, Sweden with several other guests.  When it became clear several of us are here for the Herrang Swing Dance Camp, tables were cleared to make an improptu dance floor so that I and another dancer could demonstrate for the non-initiates what Lindy Hop is.  One of the Swedes said this type of dance would never be danced in Sweden – it is not politically correct here for a man to lead a woman in anything!  From one end of the world to the other…I’m definitely not in Rio anymore 🙂

TL;DR:  Zouk is sexy.  I like it.  Now, on to Lindy Hop!

Rio Charmoso

For the most part, my days in Rio have been spent doing Portuguese language lessons in the mornings, dance lessons in the afternoon or evenings, hitting the beach when the weather is right and the mood suits me, and reading and writing.  I haven’t done much sight seeing since I first got here, though I did manage to get out to the Botanical Garden finally and had a fantastic time walking around Santa Theresa today.

Staying in Rio these past few weeks has been such a blessing for me.  Rio de Janiero is know as “Cidade Maravilhosa,” or Marvelous City, which may or may not be true for you depending on your perspective, but I would add “charming” to that description  (although, perhaps I would find all of Brazil equally charming – maybe this is not unique to Rio).  Rio simply has a quality of charm and carefreeness about it that is difficult to describe, but which is felt almost tangibly.  I see it in the way strangers interact with one another, openly and with appreciation.  I see it in how engaged the people are in their lives, the attention they pay to the people and the world around them.

I see it in how affectionate Cariocas are with one another and how welcoming they have been of me.  They greet each other with hugs that are open-armed and whole-bodied, and with kisses.  They are “close talkers,” a sign of friendship and intimacy.  The people are fantastic.  Hands down, fantastic.  Everyone I’ve met or had occasion to interact with has been friendly, patient and open.

I see it on the beaches too.  The bathing suits are tiny, and the Brazilians indulge lavishly in the exquisite pleasure of feeling the sun and the heat and the breeze and the water and the sand on every inch of their flesh.  It’s as if they have really taken to heart Khalil Gibran’s words:  “Would that you could meet the sun and wind with more of your skin and less of your raiment, for the breath of life is in the sunlight and the hand of life is in the wind…  And forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair.”  There’s no pretense at the beach, only the enjoyment of this life we’ve been granted.

Rio’s beaches are really superb.  The sand is soft and crumbly.  The water is clear and COLD! Which is nice even now in winter to escape the heat, but which must be really fantastic in summer with temperatures over 100 and 100% humidity.  The waves break smoothly and consistently, no chop, even in the afternoon.  And there’s the view…  If you’re at Copacabana, you have an open expanse of ocean in front of you and a mountain range on the left  with the crowning jewel – Sugarloaf Mountain.  If you’re at Ipanema or Leblon, scattered rocky islands stand just off the coast and to the right, Morro Dois Irmãos looms high over the city with the Vidigal favela reach up its steep sides.

Sunrise at Copacabana.
Sunrise at Copacabana.
Sunset at Ipanema.
Sunset at Ipanema – Morro Dois Irmãos.

Rio is breathtakingly gorgeous.

They say New York is the city that never sleeps, and maybe that’s true, but Rio can definitely hold it’s own in the never sleeps department.  Dance parties here don’t end until 5 or 6am on weekends, and then people go out and get food at one of the many restaurants that are open (and usually packed with people).  I was going home from a Zouk party Sunday night at 1:30am (which is early, even for a Sunday night) and full teams of people were playing soccer on at least 4 soccer fields – it looked like a rec sports league…at 1:30am.  At Copacabana last night, people were playing volleyball and foot volleyball, or doing Cross Fit style workouts, until 10 or 11pm.  Some of the bars and open air eateries on the beach don’t even close – you can stay up drinking and eating all night long until sunrise and then keep right on going.

I am smitten with Rio.

I leave tomorrow, and I leave behind me here in Rio wonderful new friends who I look forward to meeting again someday, but also some things that no longer serve me – a little bit of my fear, a little bit of my defensiveness, a little bit of my closed-mindedness.  I leave Rio more open and more trusting, and that is a gift and a blessing.

TL;DR:  Rio has carved a little home for itself in my heart.

The Purpose Driven Life: Days 13, 14, 15

In these chapters, Warren tells us to worship in a way that pleases God, to worship even if God seems distant, and that we were formed for God’s family.

The take away for me in chapter 13, worshiping in a way that pleases God, is about being fully present, fully aware, fully in tune with your Self all the time.  This, to me, is what “worship” really is.  Warren refers to the work of another author, who identifies 9 ways to worship, including being outdoors, sensual experiences, structure and rituals, solitude and simplicity, and others.  What Warren describes as God making us each different to worship Him in our own way, I see as each of us needing to grow closer to, and into, our true Selves, needing to be fully present every day to better understand who we are and how we are to live in accord with our deepest values and desires.  This isn’t a part-time job – tuning into yourself must be ceaseless, what Warren describes as giving God all of yourself.  Warren lists dancing among the many types of worship that exist, something I touched on in this post when I wrote that, when I have a really good dance, I see God.  I dance because I am compelled to dance.  When I do so, I am living according to my deepest values and desires, and the experience can be quite exhilarating.  In theory, my entire life would be as exhilarating as those brief moments if I could stay as deeply present, as deeply attuned to my Self, without ceasing.  This, to me, is what “worship” is all about.

I had a hard time with chapter 14, which is about worshiping even when God seems distant.  I personally haven’t experienced an intense presence or absence of “God” in my life.  Perhaps this is a product of being a novice spiritual seeker – I’m not close enough to God/Self to feel a withdrawal of that presence in my life.  That said, I often find the guidance I’m looking for lacking, which is perhaps what this chapter is about.  In those situations, I take a deep breath, remind myself this is where I need to be right now, and trust that the guidance will come when the time is right – when I’m ready to accept it.  It certainly makes keeping faith and hope easier when life gets hard.

Chapter 15 was very dogmatic and I didn’t find much help there in matters of daily living.

TL;DR:  No tl;dr for virtual book club posts.

The Purpose Driven Life: Days 11 and 12

Days 11 and 12 are about “becoming a best friend of God.”  To me, this means becoming the truest version of yourself, not settling for the false self your ego would have you believe in.

feel a lot of truth in these chapters, though I may not have experiential knowledge of all of it.  Warren points out that becoming a best friend of God – or becoming your truest Self – is a choice.  I wrote about this in my post on Day 1.

Two especially pertinent points in the these chapters for me are maintaining constant contact with my Self and being honest with my Self.  I can’t possibly hope to know or to become my truest Self if I’m not consciously keeping my Self in mind.  It takes constant, conscious attention to Self to break out of my default state of identification with my ego.  The stronger my connection to my Self, the more I will feel Its influence in my life.  My connection is weak – my focus on Self comes in fits and spurts.  Ego identification is tempting because it’s comfortable and it’s known and it doesn’t take any work – it’s my default state.  To help me to keep my Self in mind, I’ve started wearing a ring on my left ring finger as a symbol of being married to my Self, a reminder to keep my Self in mind, not to let my ego run amok with my life.

Honesty with my Self is another big one for me.  The “fake it till you make it” concept exists in spirituality as a means of living as if you were whole and integrated until you become whole and integrated.  And this is great, but it’s easy to take it to the extreme of not acknowledging where you’re missing mark, especially when it comes to acknowledging pain and fear.  I want so much to be whole that I forget that I am not yet whole and I try to downplay my negative emotions.  Of course, repression is a recipe for disaster.  Honestly acknowledging those negative emotions is the only means of letting them go so that you can become whole.  This chapter was a good reminder for me.

TL;DR:  No tl;dr for virtual book club posts.

The Purpose Driven Life: Day 10

Day 10 is all about surrendering to “God” – surrendering to Good, to your internal guidance system.  I found this chapter beautifully written and moving.  I think it’s mostly an elaboration on the idea of “obeying wholeheartedly” from day 9, and I’ve written plenty about this already in that post and in previous posts so I won’t repeat myself, but I do want to share some quotes from the chapter I found especially poignant:

God is not a cruel slave driver or a bully who uses brute force to coerce us into submission.  He doesn’t try to break our will, but woos us to himself so that we might offer ourselves freely to him.  God is a lover and a liberator, and surrendering to him brings freedom, not bondage.  When we completely surrender ourselves to Jesus, we discover that he is not a tyrant, but a savior; not a boss, but a brother; not a dictator, but a friend…

Again, I view the terms “God” and “Jesus” as synonyms for our True Self, our internal guidance system.  It’s not about surrendering to anything outside ourselves, but to who we really are behind our ego image.

We accept our humanity intellectually, but not emotionally.  When faced with our own limitations, we react with irritation, anger, and resentment.  We want to be taller (or shorter), smarter, stronger, more talented, more beautiful, and wealthier.  We want to have it all and do it all, and we become upset when it doesn’t happen.  Then when we notice that God gave others characteristics we don’t have, we respond with envy, jealousy, and self-pity…

You know you’re surrendered to God when you rely on God to work things out instead of trying to manipulate others, force your agenda, and control the situation.  You let go and let God work.  You don’t have to always be ‘in charge.’  The Bible says, ‘Surrender yourself to the Lord, and wait patiently for him.’  Instead of trying harder, you trust more.  You also know you’re surrendered when you don’t react to criticism and rush to defend yourself.  Surrendered hearts show up best in relationships.  You don’t edge others out, you don’t demand your rights, and you aren’t self-serving when you’re surrendered…

Victory comes through surrender.  Surrender doesn’t weaken you; it strengthens you…

Everybody eventually surrenders to something or someone.  If not to God, you will surrender to the opinions or expectations of others, to money, to resentment, to fear, or to your own pride, lusts, or ego.  You were designed to worship God [ed. note:  worship God = surrender to your internal guidance system] – and if you fail to worship him, you will create other things (idols) to give your life to.  You are free to choose what you surrender to, but you are not free from the consequences of that choice.  E. Stanley Jones said, ‘If you don’t surrender to Christ, you surrender to chaos’…

Surrendering is never just a one-time event.  Paul said, ‘I die daily.’  There is a moment of surrender, and there is the practice of surrender, which is moment-by moment and lifelong.  The problem with a living sacrifice is that it can crawl off the altar, so you may have to resurrender your life fifty times a day.  You must make it a daily habit…

TL;DR:  No tl;dr for virtual book club posts.

Latin Sugar

There’s a man I’ve been spending time with regularly this last week.  He’s Brazilian.  I met him the day after I moved to Ipanema.  I was coming home from dance lessons and was hungry, so I stopped at the burger shop right outside the metro station.  He was the only other customer in the place.  He asked where I was from and we got to talking.  His English is excellent.  We parted after about an hour and he asked for my phone number, which I gladly gave him, and we agreed to meet the next night.

It’s been such an enlightening experience, spending time with T.  People who know me know I don’t get involved in casual liaisons.  I’ve simply never enjoyed them.  I’ve tried, but to no avail.  I talked to an aunt about this recently – how I’ve never been able to simply enjoy spending time with a man I liked.  If long term commitment wasn’t both a possibility and a desire, I wanted nothing to do with any of it (with one exception – there’s always an exception).  Those times I tried to force myself to want something I didn’t want, I made myself miserable, and I’m sure I made the guys miserable, too.  I simply could not be in the moment – my mind was always in the future, and the present moment was a confusion.  This was true even in my committed relationships.

Not so this time.  I give much of the credit to T – he treats me like a human being, not a sex toy.  But, much more of it has to do with me – with becoming more my true self and less my false self.  Because, let’s face it – I’ve been incredibly false.  I bought in to every lie my culture foisted on me and perpetrated those falsehoods against myself and others thinking I was doing the “right” thing.  Becoming more my true self and less my false self means letting those falsehoods go and accepting the truths that rise up in their place.

One of those truths is that I really enjoy spending time with T, future or no future.  He’s very cerebral, like me, with many thoughts on many topics that I find interesting.  I like listening to him talk, learning about him, at least partially because learning about him also means learning about myself.  I like the feeling of his face close to mine when we kiss, and the way his hands caress my skin.

I was amazed at how easily I let this stranger into my life, at how open I am to him and with him with no expectations about what the next moment will bring.  I suppose one could chalk that up to the nature of being on holiday in a foreign country – I wouldn’t really know since this is the first time I’ve ever been single abroad.  Still, I remember how rigid I was, how resistant I was to the idea that I could have a meaningful connection with man with whom I saw no possibility of a future.  It’s new to me and it’s amazing.

And it lasted about a hot minute before my old insecurities started to creep in, threatening to ruin the beautiful space we’d created.  Our communications are all via text, and that’s pretty much limited to discussing logistics for our next date.  And I thought that was great – none of the needy, cloying texts insecure lovers send to one another to evoke a response to soothe (or justify) their fearful egos.  And then I found myself in that insecure role again, wondering whether the radio silence was meaningful, whether he might interpret my silence as meaning something it didn’t, feeling the need to reach out just to make pseudo-connection, concerned about sending the wrong message by not reaching out, what it meant that he didn’t respond w/in 5 minutes, etc.  I could feel his mental projections – which were only in my imagination – becoming more important to me than my own integrity – my own intentions and actions.  Unlike the past, though, I could see it happening in real time, so I could observe it – its causes and effects – without being taken over by it.  It’s progress, folks.  It really is.

We had plans to get together this evening.  I sent T a text as I was heading out the door to my dance lesson letting him know what I was up to and asking where did he want to meet.  He texted back asking if we could postpone until tomorrow since he wasn’t feeling well.  I was naturally disappointed, but I could also feel those old fears of rejection rising up:  he was standing me up, he didn’t want to see me anymore, etc.

I recognized it right away – the insanity of a frantic, fearful, insecure ego.  Before I responded, I asked myself how I would respond if I wasn’t crazy.  We had a “successful” exchange – we have plans to meet up again tomorrow.

I reminded myself as I was coming home on the metro that it’s not personal.  Perhaps I was getting what I wanted from him in terms of him responding to me, but even if he ghosted, I had no reason to be disturbed – he’s on his path, I’m on mine, and there’s nothing personal about any of it.  Still, I can be grateful for the progress I see I’ve made.  Even being able to be as open to him and with him, and as accepting of myself, as I have been is huge for me, as is instantly recognizing when I’m getting crazy and not allowing it to take me over.  When I was with M, I would often enough justify my craziness instead of recognizing it for what it was, instead of recognizing that I was whole and that M couldn’t hurt me, and I would project my craziness onto him.

Old insecurities die hard.  It’s amazing how quickly and strongly I can be affected by a man who…  I was going to write “a man who I don’t know” and “a man who I probably won’t ever see again” and “a man who has no ability to impact my life,” but those all seem superfluous as they all apply to all other people, really.  Except the bit about not affecting my life – everyone I meet affects my life in some way, the question is only one of how I choose to interpret that.

But, it doesn’t matter whether I “know” them or not, will see them again or not.  We are all Being at our core, and we all suffer from the same illusion, even though the manifestations of which are many and may falsely appear to be entirely different and separate from one another.  Neither the illusion nor any of its manifestations exhibited by others have anything to do with Me.  And none of the manifestations of the illusion I exhibit have anything to with them.  It’s not T’s fault him cancelling on me made me feel insecure – my insecurity is a manifestation of my attachment to the illusion of separation.  This is a perfect example of how our emotions are to serve as signposts pointing us to where our work needs to be done – where we’re clinging to illusion instead of letting go and letting “Good,” to borrow the old saying from AA.  I got insecure because I believed that T had power over me, that his evaluation of me (again, an evaluation that existed only in my mind) was meaningful.  I have work to do in letting go of investing meaning in others’ judgments (real or imagined) of me.

There’s nothing like a romantic engagement to show you where your work lies, if you let it.

TL;DR:  I got a little latin sugar in my bowl, and I’m feeling good.

The Purpose Driven Life: Day 9

I don’t want your sacrifices – I want your love; I don’t want your offerings – I want you to know me.

Oh my God, I LOVE this chapter.  In Day 9, Warren says “The smile of God is the goal of your life” and uses Noah as his biblical example:  “Noah consistently followed God’s will and enjoyed a close relationship with Him.”  If you take the concept of an external God and make it internal, this entire chapter is about healing the internal divide.

“God smiles when we trust him completely.”  This is about following the dictates of your heart, since that’s where your soul resides, your connection to “Good” and Being, your internal God.  This is trusting in your internal guidance system.  The idea of “God” smiling – of bringing joy to God – is really about bringing joy to your Self, which Warren points out further in the chapter.

“God smiles when we obey him wholeheartedly.”  This is also about following the dictates of your heart.  First you must trust, then you must obey.  Warren also says “you will never understand some commands until you obey them first.”  I know this to be true in my life.  I didn’t understand leaving my ex when I had no means of supporting myself, I just knew I had to do it.  That experience – trusting in my internal guidance system to lead me in the right direction, and in the Universe (God, Good, Being, Truth, Light) to support me in that endeavor – laid the groundwork for this experiment, enabling me to break all the rules to follow my heart’s desire, trusting that, while I can’t possibly know the purpose now of doing what I’m doing, fulfillment, joy and clarity await me on the other side.  But only if I trust and obey.

“God smiles when we praise and thank him continually.”  This is where Warren asserts that when we bring joy to “God,” “our own hearts are filled with joy.”  Much research has been done on the effects of gratitude, including the fact that people who feel gratitude are happier than people who don’t.  If you’re looking for an entertaining video on the topic, this Ted Talk by Shawn Achor is excellent and terribly funny.  When you feel gratitude for what your internal guidance system brings you when you follow it, you feel joy.  I know this to be true in my life.  I’ve made it a habit to ignore my internal guidance system, so it has to speak REALLY LOUDLY for me to hear it, but when I do, and when I follow it, I feel nothing but joy regardless what I’m “giving up” to do so.  This was true when I left my ex, when I started learning how to dance, and when I quit my job to travel the world and study dance.  This is true now.  I cannot tell you how happy I am here and now.  It’s tempting to look externally for the sources of my happiness – the beauty of Rio’s geography, the joie de vivre of the people, the weather, the fact that I’m not working… – but the truth is my happiness comes from following my heart’s desire.  It’s only when we attach our happiness to things external that we begin to feel longing, neediness, insecurity, and unhappiness.  I’m grateful to be here now, and I’m happy because of my gratitude.

“God smiles when we use our abilities.”  This is Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi’s concept of “flow” – when we are engaged with single-minded focus on, or absorption in, the task at hand.  This happens only when we use our abilities in the service of our affinities – our desires.  Finding “flow” brings us joy.  I know this to be true in my life and I wrote about this before when describing how I feel when I dance.

And you?  When was the last time your soul smiled?

TL;DR:  No tl;dr for virtual book club posts.

Purpose Driven Life: Days 7 & 8

In days 7 and 8, Warren asserts that everything exists for God’s glory and for God’s pleasure, respectively.

I’m struggling with this book, friends.  I find it dogmatic, contradictory, preachy, and exclusionary.  I find myself often thinking “so what – get to the point already.”  I feel a lot of resistance to much of what Warren has written.  I feel compelled to stick it out, though.  Maybe I’ll learn something about myself in the process.

In Day 7, Warren says:

Jesus honored God by fulfilling his purpose on earth.  We honor God the same way.

He then proceeds to lay out the major categories of how to bring glory to God:  worship Him, love other believers, become Christ-like, serve others with our gifts and talents, and tell others about God.

Jesus didn’t care about religious dogma, which is why the pharisees hated Him.  He also didn’t limit his love only to those who believed in Him.  Yet, Warren tells us we can honor God in the same way Jesus did by following religious dogma.  Nonsense.  No one else in this world can tell you what path you should follow.  However you understand what it means to “bring glory to God,” you do that by following the dictates of your soul – which is what Jesus did – not those of another human being.

In Day 8, Warren says God created us for his pleasure and enjoyment:

God did not need to create you, but he chose to create you for his own enjoyment.  You exist for his benefit, his glory, his purpose, and his delight.

Warren says this “proves [our] worth,” but it sounds more like a dysfunctional relationship to me.  This is only because of the perspective of God as a separate entity.  If I leave off the notion of a separate God and replace it with the notion of “Good,” Being, Light, Love, or Truth, of which everything in the universe, including myself, is a reflection, then this makes sense – I experience pleasure, enjoyment, benefit, glory, purpose and delight when I “bring glory to God” – live according to the deepest values and desires of my soul.

8 days down, 32 to go.  Will I make it?  Stay tuned to find out.

TL;DR:  No tl;dr for virtual book club posts.

The Purpose Driven Life: Day 6

Day 6:  Life is a temporary assignment.  I talked about this yesterday, so in the interest of brevity – and because I’m running out to go Zouking 😉 – I’m only going to focus on what I find to be true here.

And what I find to true in this chapter is the notion that we are not to become attached to our earthly lives.  I have held on to too many things for too long in my life and it has never caused me anything but pain.  I’ve written about this before.  And realizing that my attachment was what was causing me pain allowed me to start to let go…even though the actual letting go sometimes took much longer.

That’s it.  See you on the dance floor 😀

TL;DR:  No tl;dr for virtual book club posts.

Vidigal and Morro Dois Irmãos

Every Friday, my language school, Casa dos Caminhos, hosts a tour of some part of the city.  This Friday, it was a hike up Morro Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers Mountain) via the Vidigal favela.  The Vidigal favela sits on the coast, stretching precariously up the side of Two Brothers Mountain and offering residents spectacular ocean and beach views.

The steep and winding streets of the Vidigal favela.  You can get a glimpse of their incredible view of Ipanema beach.
The steep and winding streets of the Vidigal favela. You can get a glimpse of their incredible view of Ipanema beach.

We caught a bus from Ipanema to Vidigal, which sits at the southwest edge of Rio, where we tranferred to a minibus to take us up the favela.  As you can see from the pic above, the streets are narrow (that’s a two-way street) and windy – no room for regular buses here.  Instead, vans operating as minibuses take people up and down the mountain and vie for the narrow road space with cars and motorcycle taxis in both directions, as well as pedestrians.

The bus dropped us off near the top of the favela where we caught the trail that would take us to the top of the taller of the Two Brothers.  It was kind of half hike/half mountain climb, and I swear our guide was part mountain goat the way he bounded up the mountain.  It was an incredibly steep and challenging hike, but well worth it for lovely view we were rewarded with:

View of Rio from the top of Two Brothers.
View of Rio from the top of Two Brothers.

Click on the pic to see the full-sized version – you’ve got Cristo Redentor on the peak on the left, Sugarloaf Mountain in middle (the narrower, taller peak behind the big hill in the middle), Copacabana Beach next to that, and Ipanema and Leblon beaches stretching along the right side.  In the distance, you can see Niteroi, which sits across the water from Rio.  It was a popular photo op, and we stayed for maybe 20 minutes to rest and enjoy the view before heading back down.

Once we got back to the favela, a group of us decided to walk down through the favela instead of taking the minibus.  I wanted to take pictures of everything, but I also didn’t want to treat the people there like zoo animals in their own neighborhood.  The favela is extremely colorful and all the buildings are tiny.  I walked by several little barber shops or hair salons with only 2 chairs in them – because that’s all that would fit, and even that looked very cozy.  Because the homes are mostly handbuilt by each of the residents (or were, back in the day), nearly every home has its own roof-top patio where they hang clothes to dry, keep massive blue buckets which I assume are used for catching rain water, and hang out to enjoy a meal, drink, or smoke with their incredible view.  And, because the mountain is so steep, everyone there seems to have an incredible view.

The colorful homes of the Vidigal favela crawling up the steep mountainside.  All of these homes have a view of the ocean.
The colorful homes of the Vidigal favela crawling up the steep mountainside. All of these homes have a view of the ocean.

The street art was also pretty spectacular:

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This is a painting of Vidigal – on the left is Vidigal, then the Two Brothers Mountain, then Leblon beach.
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A strange combination of creepy and spectacular.

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The lizard is 3D art.
The lizard is 3D art.
This is actually a decorated favela - this is someone's home.
This is actually a decorated favela – this is someone’s home.

So, of all the random things in the world, there was a girl on the tour with us I hadn’t ever seen before at the school, but I did see her the night before….in my Zouk class!  She’s a fellow Zoukeira.  A Slovaki Zoukeira.  And she recently quit her job and came to Rio to Zouk her butt off.  How’s that for an unlikely coincidence!

TL;DR:  A brief encounter with a different side of life in Brazil, a gorgeous view, and a series of unlikely coincidences.