Santa Theresa

Tuesday was my last full day in Rio, and I spent it walking around the Santa Theresa neighborhood.  I cannot tell you how much I enjoyed this day.  The weather was gorgeous, the people friendly as always, and the sights fascinating.  I sort of wandered around soaking it all in with what I imagine was a look of dazed wonder on my face.  It was really fantastic.

Santa Theresa is an old neighborhood in Rio.  It sits on a high hill south of downtown with fantastic views of the city to the north and of the bay and Niteroi to the east.  It is home to many old, stately mansions, some of which are quite run down.  It is also home to more modern homes and to a favela.

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Dilapidated old mansion in Santa Theresa.

Santa Theresa is an interesting mix of monied and poor Cariocas.  It’s a bohemian neighborhood, like Lapa, historic and quaint, especially with all the winding, narrow roads that navigate the hill.  I didn’t know what to expect going there, but I found it very charming.  One of the main streets through the neighborhood is lined with cute, artsy shops and hip cafes with gorgeous views overlooking the city.

My tour actually started in the neighboring area of Gloria, at the Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do Outeiro.

It was impossible to get a pic of the entire church, but this gives you an idea of the architecture and construction.
It was impossible to get a pic of the entire church, but this gives you an idea of the architecture and construction.

The church dates back to 1739 and is considered a magnificent example of the colonial architecture of the time.  I was impressed by the beautiful stone arches out front (back?) and by the simple beauty of the interior.

Inside the church.  The blue and white tiles where characteristic of Brazilian churches of the time, a tradition brought over from Portugal.  I saw similar church decoration in the churches I visited in Salvador last year.
Inside the church. The blue and white tiles were characteristic of Brazilian churches of the time, a tradition brought over from Portugal. I saw similar church decoration in the churches I visited in Salvador last year.

From the church, I walked over to neighboring Santa Theresa and began the steep climb into the neighborhood.

Where I came from...
Where I came from…
...and where I was going.
…and where I was going.

I walked up to Ruins Park, where the ruins of an old mansion are maintained and where there’s a terrace with 360-degree views of the surrounding area.

Inside the ruins:

Inside the ruins.

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And the view:

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View of the bay with Niteroi on the other side and Sugarloaf Mountain to the right of center.
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The view of downtown Rio. You can see the Catholic Cathedral and Lapa Arches in the middle, as well as the bridge to Niteroi on the upper right. To the right of the Cathedral is my favorite modern building in downtown with huge, symmetrical block cutouts that house patios for people to enjoy.
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Close-up of the Cathedral and Lapa Arches.

Once I had taken in the view, I head back down the hill into Lapa to catch a few more sights.

Another staircase in Santa Theresa.
Another staircase in Santa Theresa.
Another Santa Theresa mansion.
Another Santa Theresa mansion.

One of the other students at my language school recommended going into the Catholic Cathedral, so I did. From the outside, it looks like a drab, brown beehive, and I didn’t see any reason to go inside.  In fact, the building looks so intimidating, and they have huge security guards in suits at the gated entrances to the Cathedral, that I didn’t even think I could  go inside – I figured it was prohibited.  But, on the inside:

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The Cathedral stands 246 feet inside with 4 stained glasses each standing 210 feet tall – about 21 stories!  My pictures can’t begin to capture what it’s like to walk into that cavernous building with stained glass stretching so high your eyes can’t take in the whole thing at once.  It really is magnificent.

Afterwards, I tried to visit the Biblioteca Real – Gabinete Portugues de Leitura, an historic library and reading room which is housed in a beautiful old building in downtown Rio.  You can check out some amazing pictures here in Google images.  Sadly, the Biblioteca was closed that day, so I missed out.  I shall add it to my list of things to look forward to when I next visit Rio.  Diana – we can explore it together!

TL;DR:  Last full day in Rio spent soaking up the sun and sights in Santa Theresa, Lapa.

2 Comments

  1. Thanks for all the comments, Diana! I think you would LOVE Rio (if you could get over the heat and humidity?).

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