Rio Charmoso

For the most part, my days in Rio have been spent doing Portuguese language lessons in the mornings, dance lessons in the afternoon or evenings, hitting the beach when the weather is right and the mood suits me, and reading and writing.  I haven’t done much sight seeing since I first got here, though I did manage to get out to the Botanical Garden finally and had a fantastic time walking around Santa Theresa today.

Staying in Rio these past few weeks has been such a blessing for me.  Rio de Janiero is know as “Cidade Maravilhosa,” or Marvelous City, which may or may not be true for you depending on your perspective, but I would add “charming” to that description  (although, perhaps I would find all of Brazil equally charming – maybe this is not unique to Rio).  Rio simply has a quality of charm and carefreeness about it that is difficult to describe, but which is felt almost tangibly.  I see it in the way strangers interact with one another, openly and with appreciation.  I see it in how engaged the people are in their lives, the attention they pay to the people and the world around them.

I see it in how affectionate Cariocas are with one another and how welcoming they have been of me.  They greet each other with hugs that are open-armed and whole-bodied, and with kisses.  They are “close talkers,” a sign of friendship and intimacy.  The people are fantastic.  Hands down, fantastic.  Everyone I’ve met or had occasion to interact with has been friendly, patient and open.

I see it on the beaches too.  The bathing suits are tiny, and the Brazilians indulge lavishly in the exquisite pleasure of feeling the sun and the heat and the breeze and the water and the sand on every inch of their flesh.  It’s as if they have really taken to heart Khalil Gibran’s words:  “Would that you could meet the sun and wind with more of your skin and less of your raiment, for the breath of life is in the sunlight and the hand of life is in the wind…  And forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair.”  There’s no pretense at the beach, only the enjoyment of this life we’ve been granted.

Rio’s beaches are really superb.  The sand is soft and crumbly.  The water is clear and COLD! Which is nice even now in winter to escape the heat, but which must be really fantastic in summer with temperatures over 100 and 100% humidity.  The waves break smoothly and consistently, no chop, even in the afternoon.  And there’s the view…  If you’re at Copacabana, you have an open expanse of ocean in front of you and a mountain range on the left  with the crowning jewel – Sugarloaf Mountain.  If you’re at Ipanema or Leblon, scattered rocky islands stand just off the coast and to the right, Morro Dois Irmãos looms high over the city with the Vidigal favela reach up its steep sides.

Rio is breathtakingly gorgeous.

They say New York is the city that never sleeps, and maybe that’s true, but Rio can definitely hold it’s own in the never sleeps department.  Dance parties here don’t end until 5 or 6am on weekends, and then people go out and get food at one of the many restaurants that are open (and usually packed with people).  I was going home from a Zouk party Sunday night at 1:30am (which is early, even for a Sunday night) and full teams of people were playing soccer on at least 4 soccer fields – it looked like a rec sports league…at 1:30am.  At Copacabana last night, people were playing volleyball and foot volleyball, or doing Cross Fit style workouts, until 10 or 11pm.  Some of the bars and open air eateries on the beach don’t even close – you can stay up drinking and eating all night long until sunrise and then keep right on going.

I am smitten with Rio.

I leave tomorrow, and I leave behind me here in Rio wonderful new friends who I look forward to meeting again someday, but also some things that no longer serve me – a little bit of my fear, a little bit of my defensiveness, a little bit of my closed-mindedness.  I leave Rio more open and more trusting, and that is a gift and a blessing.

TL;DR:  Rio has carved a little home for itself in my heart.